Bye Bye to Buy Buy
The wholesale adoption of a discard and dispose culture is putting the next generation of Pakistanis at risk, warns Afia Salam.
☰
Recycle, Reuse and Repeat
Consumers today buy about 60% more clothes than they did 15 years ago, according to data released by the World Economic Forum. Enter any mall anywhere in the world and you will find a wide selection of high street fast fashion, household and sporting brands. Each brand brings out multiple new products every month in all categories, leading to overconsumption and a burgeoning waste crisis. Approximately 87% of discarded textiles end up disposed in a landfill.
The textile and garment sector is ranked as the second most environmentally damaging industry worldwide and is also currently dealing with challenges related to its impact on the use of natural resources. In addition to generating waste, the industry is responsible for 10% of total greenhouse gas emissions, 20% of global wastewater and nine percent of the annual microplastic pollution in oceans (United Nations, 2019).
Traditional product lifecycles remain linear. Raw materials are extracted or grown; products are manufactured, used and discarded. Additionally, fabric waste is discarded at every stage of the value chain.
According to McKinsey’s research, 12% of fibres are cast off during production, 25% of all garments remain unsold and less than one percent is recycled into new garments.
Furthermore, compared to consumers, businesses tend to discard larger quantities at each stage of the value chain, so that for each pound worth of textiles that a consumer throws away, 40 pounds are discarded by a business – this amounts to 92 million tons of waste produced globally by the garment industry.
This realisation has slowly led to many brands introducing recycled polyester in their products. However, the main source of recycled polyester comes from polyethene terephthalate (PET) bottles and although this may have a positive impact on the overall environmental footprint of textiles and garments, it does not impact the amount of textiles that are wasted. According to research by the Changing Markets Foundation, there are limited options for viable fibre-to-fibre polyester recycling and therefore the fibre should remain confined to a closed-loop bottle-to-bottle recycling system.
Managing Textile Waste in PakistanIn Pakistan, there is an informal waste trading system that reduces the amount of textile waste ending up in a landfill. Many small businesses trading in export leftovers resell or refurbish the material, so that it can be reused at least one more time. Even the official paper used for currency notes, certificates and chequebooks is made from discarded cotton. Denim is recycled and added to the new denim fabric produced in Pakistan. The story is similar to the recycling of PET bottles into polyester yarn, as large-scale demand outstrips supply and many textile exporters are importing recycled polyester. Furthermore, textile waste sent to landfills is sorted out and ends up being used in some form or another, and unusable textiles are turned into stuffing for cushions and patchwork.
Lunda bazaars are well known for reselling second-hand clothing. However, the culture of reuse is not limited to people who cannot afford it; as the Pakistani rupee has devalued, the cost of high-end branded clothing has increased, leading to a growing number of enterprises choosing to focus on second-hand clothing. Nevertheless, even in a country where recycling is a common concept, there is a need to re-examine consumer behaviour to reduce the unsustainable ‘make, take, dispose’ model.
Switching to Circular Economy ModelsThrift shops are a common concept in developed countries, although only a select consumer cohort buys from them, and most people still don’t know what to do to ensure their discarded clothes are reused, repaired or recycled. Brands such as H&M and Primark have developed incentives for consumers to bring their clothing back to stores and deposit it in recycling boxes. Every year, 700,000 tons of used clothing are shipped to other countries and while these resources can be useful, there is a need to further document how these clothes are recycled.
Circular business models, such as rental, resale, repair and remaking, ensure that products are used continuously. This enables companies to generate revenue without producing new clothing, offering the fashion industry a chance for sustainable growth.
The UN recommends three priorities to foster a circular economy: a shift in consumption patterns; an improvement in production processes, product design and care; and infrastructural investment in renewable energy, water treatment and waste management.
In this respect, global policy frameworks are tackling all three priorities. The most advanced strides can be seen in the EU.
Firstly, the financial sector is encouraged to invest in sustainable products. As per the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Requirements, institutional investors have to explain how they consider ESG (environment, social and governance) in their investment products. Secondly, producers are encouraged to produce sustainable products. As part of its Green Deal, the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles requires that by 2030, textile products in EU markets be recyclable, free of hazardous substances and produced respecting social rights and the environment. Linked to the European Green Deal are several directives, regulations and frameworks that put the responsibility of the product lifecycle on the producer. This includes defining the concept of extended producer responsibility (EPR) and sustainable products in eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The initiative will be progressively rolled out and is expected to ban large and medium enterprises from destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Furthermore, the forthcoming Textile Labelling Regulation will require companies to disclose product information. Thirdly, through the regulation, consumers will be provided with the required information.
Similarly, the UK’s Sustainability Disclosure Requirements (SDR) require compliance from companies to make consumer-facing product-level disclosures that provide standardised information on a product’s sustainability. Additionally, consumption patterns are being addressed by local legislation in cities around the world through waste management systems that enable consumers to dispose of clothing and other textiles in designated bins. Although these options are voluntary, as natural resources become more expensive to grow due to climate change and water scarcity, it is expected that recycled resources will become the norm.
Impact on Pakistan’s ExportsIn light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).
Read Comments
Related Stories
Furthermore, compared to consumers, businesses tend to discard larger quantities at each stage of the value chain, so that for each pound worth of textiles that a consumer throws away, 40 pounds are discarded by a business – this amounts to 92 million tons of waste produced globally by the garment industry.
This realisation has slowly led to many brands introducing recycled polyester in their products. However, the main source of recycled polyester comes from polyethene terephthalate (PET) bottles and although this may have a positive impact on the overall environmental footprint of textiles and garments, it does not impact the amount of textiles that are wasted. According to research by the Changing Markets Foundation, there are limited options for viable fibre-to-fibre polyester recycling and therefore the fibre should remain confined to a closed-loop bottle-to-bottle recycling system.
Managing Textile Waste in PakistanIn Pakistan, there is an informal waste trading system that reduces the amount of textile waste ending up in a landfill. Many small businesses trading in export leftovers resell or refurbish the material, so that it can be reused at least one more time. Even the official paper used for currency notes, certificates and chequebooks is made from discarded cotton. Denim is recycled and added to the new denim fabric produced in Pakistan. The story is similar to the recycling of PET bottles into polyester yarn, as large-scale demand outstrips supply and many textile exporters are importing recycled polyester. Furthermore, textile waste sent to landfills is sorted out and ends up being used in some form or another, and unusable textiles are turned into stuffing for cushions and patchwork.
Lunda bazaars are well known for reselling second-hand clothing. However, the culture of reuse is not limited to people who cannot afford it; as the Pakistani rupee has devalued, the cost of high-end branded clothing has increased, leading to a growing number of enterprises choosing to focus on second-hand clothing. Nevertheless, even in a country where recycling is a common concept, there is a need to re-examine consumer behaviour to reduce the unsustainable ‘make, take, dispose’ model.
Switching to Circular Economy ModelsThrift shops are a common concept in developed countries, although only a select consumer cohort buys from them, and most people still don’t know what to do to ensure their discarded clothes are reused, repaired or recycled. Brands such as H&M and Primark have developed incentives for consumers to bring their clothing back to stores and deposit it in recycling boxes. Every year, 700,000 tons of used clothing are shipped to other countries and while these resources can be useful, there is a need to further document how these clothes are recycled.
Circular business models, such as rental, resale, repair and remaking, ensure that products are used continuously. This enables companies to generate revenue without producing new clothing, offering the fashion industry a chance for sustainable growth.
The UN recommends three priorities to foster a circular economy: a shift in consumption patterns; an improvement in production processes, product design and care; and infrastructural investment in renewable energy, water treatment and waste management.
In this respect, global policy frameworks are tackling all three priorities. The most advanced strides can be seen in the EU.
Firstly, the financial sector is encouraged to invest in sustainable products. As per the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Requirements, institutional investors have to explain how they consider ESG (environment, social and governance) in their investment products. Secondly, producers are encouraged to produce sustainable products. As part of its Green Deal, the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles requires that by 2030, textile products in EU markets be recyclable, free of hazardous substances and produced respecting social rights and the environment. Linked to the European Green Deal are several directives, regulations and frameworks that put the responsibility of the product lifecycle on the producer. This includes defining the concept of extended producer responsibility (EPR) and sustainable products in eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The initiative will be progressively rolled out and is expected to ban large and medium enterprises from destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Furthermore, the forthcoming Textile Labelling Regulation will require companies to disclose product information. Thirdly, through the regulation, consumers will be provided with the required information.
Similarly, the UK’s Sustainability Disclosure Requirements (SDR) require compliance from companies to make consumer-facing product-level disclosures that provide standardised information on a product’s sustainability. Additionally, consumption patterns are being addressed by local legislation in cities around the world through waste management systems that enable consumers to dispose of clothing and other textiles in designated bins. Although these options are voluntary, as natural resources become more expensive to grow due to climate change and water scarcity, it is expected that recycled resources will become the norm.
Impact on Pakistan’s ExportsIn light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).
Read Comments
Related Stories
In Pakistan, there is an informal waste trading system that reduces the amount of textile waste ending up in a landfill. Many small businesses trading in export leftovers resell or refurbish the material, so that it can be reused at least one more time. Even the official paper used for currency notes, certificates and chequebooks is made from discarded cotton. Denim is recycled and added to the new denim fabric produced in Pakistan. The story is similar to the recycling of PET bottles into polyester yarn, as large-scale demand outstrips supply and many textile exporters are importing recycled polyester. Furthermore, textile waste sent to landfills is sorted out and ends up being used in some form or another, and unusable textiles are turned into stuffing for cushions and patchwork.
Lunda bazaars are well known for reselling second-hand clothing. However, the culture of reuse is not limited to people who cannot afford it; as the Pakistani rupee has devalued, the cost of high-end branded clothing has increased, leading to a growing number of enterprises choosing to focus on second-hand clothing. Nevertheless, even in a country where recycling is a common concept, there is a need to re-examine consumer behaviour to reduce the unsustainable ‘make, take, dispose’ model.
Switching to Circular Economy ModelsThrift shops are a common concept in developed countries, although only a select consumer cohort buys from them, and most people still don’t know what to do to ensure their discarded clothes are reused, repaired or recycled. Brands such as H&M and Primark have developed incentives for consumers to bring their clothing back to stores and deposit it in recycling boxes. Every year, 700,000 tons of used clothing are shipped to other countries and while these resources can be useful, there is a need to further document how these clothes are recycled.
Circular business models, such as rental, resale, repair and remaking, ensure that products are used continuously. This enables companies to generate revenue without producing new clothing, offering the fashion industry a chance for sustainable growth.
The UN recommends three priorities to foster a circular economy: a shift in consumption patterns; an improvement in production processes, product design and care; and infrastructural investment in renewable energy, water treatment and waste management.
In this respect, global policy frameworks are tackling all three priorities. The most advanced strides can be seen in the EU.
Firstly, the financial sector is encouraged to invest in sustainable products. As per the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Requirements, institutional investors have to explain how they consider ESG (environment, social and governance) in their investment products. Secondly, producers are encouraged to produce sustainable products. As part of its Green Deal, the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles requires that by 2030, textile products in EU markets be recyclable, free of hazardous substances and produced respecting social rights and the environment. Linked to the European Green Deal are several directives, regulations and frameworks that put the responsibility of the product lifecycle on the producer. This includes defining the concept of extended producer responsibility (EPR) and sustainable products in eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The initiative will be progressively rolled out and is expected to ban large and medium enterprises from destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Furthermore, the forthcoming Textile Labelling Regulation will require companies to disclose product information. Thirdly, through the regulation, consumers will be provided with the required information.
Similarly, the UK’s Sustainability Disclosure Requirements (SDR) require compliance from companies to make consumer-facing product-level disclosures that provide standardised information on a product’s sustainability. Additionally, consumption patterns are being addressed by local legislation in cities around the world through waste management systems that enable consumers to dispose of clothing and other textiles in designated bins. Although these options are voluntary, as natural resources become more expensive to grow due to climate change and water scarcity, it is expected that recycled resources will become the norm.
Impact on Pakistan’s ExportsIn light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).
Read Comments
Related Stories
Thrift shops are a common concept in developed countries, although only a select consumer cohort buys from them, and most people still don’t know what to do to ensure their discarded clothes are reused, repaired or recycled. Brands such as H&M and Primark have developed incentives for consumers to bring their clothing back to stores and deposit it in recycling boxes. Every year, 700,000 tons of used clothing are shipped to other countries and while these resources can be useful, there is a need to further document how these clothes are recycled.
Circular business models, such as rental, resale, repair and remaking, ensure that products are used continuously. This enables companies to generate revenue without producing new clothing, offering the fashion industry a chance for sustainable growth.
The UN recommends three priorities to foster a circular economy: a shift in consumption patterns; an improvement in production processes, product design and care; and infrastructural investment in renewable energy, water treatment and waste management.
In this respect, global policy frameworks are tackling all three priorities. The most advanced strides can be seen in the EU.
Firstly, the financial sector is encouraged to invest in sustainable products. As per the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Requirements, institutional investors have to explain how they consider ESG (environment, social and governance) in their investment products. Secondly, producers are encouraged to produce sustainable products. As part of its Green Deal, the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles requires that by 2030, textile products in EU markets be recyclable, free of hazardous substances and produced respecting social rights and the environment. Linked to the European Green Deal are several directives, regulations and frameworks that put the responsibility of the product lifecycle on the producer. This includes defining the concept of extended producer responsibility (EPR) and sustainable products in eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The initiative will be progressively rolled out and is expected to ban large and medium enterprises from destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Furthermore, the forthcoming Textile Labelling Regulation will require companies to disclose product information. Thirdly, through the regulation, consumers will be provided with the required information.
Similarly, the UK’s Sustainability Disclosure Requirements (SDR) require compliance from companies to make consumer-facing product-level disclosures that provide standardised information on a product’s sustainability. Additionally, consumption patterns are being addressed by local legislation in cities around the world through waste management systems that enable consumers to dispose of clothing and other textiles in designated bins. Although these options are voluntary, as natural resources become more expensive to grow due to climate change and water scarcity, it is expected that recycled resources will become the norm.
Impact on Pakistan’s ExportsIn light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).
Read Comments
Related Stories
In this respect, global policy frameworks are tackling all three priorities. The most advanced strides can be seen in the EU.
Firstly, the financial sector is encouraged to invest in sustainable products. As per the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Requirements, institutional investors have to explain how they consider ESG (environment, social and governance) in their investment products. Secondly, producers are encouraged to produce sustainable products. As part of its Green Deal, the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles requires that by 2030, textile products in EU markets be recyclable, free of hazardous substances and produced respecting social rights and the environment. Linked to the European Green Deal are several directives, regulations and frameworks that put the responsibility of the product lifecycle on the producer. This includes defining the concept of extended producer responsibility (EPR) and sustainable products in eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The initiative will be progressively rolled out and is expected to ban large and medium enterprises from destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Furthermore, the forthcoming Textile Labelling Regulation will require companies to disclose product information. Thirdly, through the regulation, consumers will be provided with the required information.
Similarly, the UK’s Sustainability Disclosure Requirements (SDR) require compliance from companies to make consumer-facing product-level disclosures that provide standardised information on a product’s sustainability. Additionally, consumption patterns are being addressed by local legislation in cities around the world through waste management systems that enable consumers to dispose of clothing and other textiles in designated bins. Although these options are voluntary, as natural resources become more expensive to grow due to climate change and water scarcity, it is expected that recycled resources will become the norm.
Impact on Pakistan’s ExportsIn light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).
Read Comments
Related Stories
In light of legislation, investor requirements and newfound consumer awareness, many global brands have developed their own measurable targets in terms of sourcing sustainable raw materials. Pakistani exporters will need to manufacture garments with higher compliance with respect to eco-design requirements and will have to shift their focus towards manufacturing more durable, energy-efficient, and resource-efficient textile products with higher recycled content. To ensure profitability, this will require local sustainable sourcing options for both synthetic and natural fibres, and to remain competitive, the private sector will have to invest in a central waste sorting facility to gather used clothing for resale and send textile waste to companies interested in creating recycled materials.
It is important that EPR guidelines be developed for companies to help them manage their textile waste. In Bangladesh, more than 30 global brands, such as Bershka, C&A, H&M, Kmart, Marks & Spencer and OVS, have developed the infrastructure to process post-production textile waste and discards and have collected about 1,500 tons of textile waste. Similar investments could be made in Pakistan.
Post-consumer recycling faces many challenges. To date, few governments have mandated textile recycling, and worldwide only about 25% of discarded garments are collected separately from other waste. Nevertheless, matters will change quickly as policy frameworks build up pressure on the textile sector to adopt circular principles. As the world continues to grapple with this concept, Pakistan’s experience in recycling should be explored to develop viable business models that can present viable avenues for global investment in textile recycling.
Nazish Shekha is Head of Initiative, Centre of Excellence in Responsible Business (CERP) at the Pakistan Business Council (PBC).