Bread lovers’ delight
A French football fan is seen cheering his team at the 2018 World Cup with a baguette in hand. Whether the young man was enjoying the gastronomic benefits of a prevalent stereotype or making a satirical comment on it, there is no doubt that the French know their baked goods as few others do. And imitation is the best form of flattery, as Marcel’s has achieved so gracefully and uniquely. Marcel’s, owned by Ali and Umair Khalili, opened in April 2018 and ambitiously combines three very French establishments in one; boulangerie, patisserie and bistro.
Located where Pakistan’s first Pizza Hut stood and endowed with a large space, the Khalili brothers enlisted Naheed Mashooqullah of Xander’s and Aylanto fame to breathe life into their venture and the resulting space seats over 120 people in a quaint French setting. Entering, one’s visual senses are seized by the colours, glaze and poetry of the pastries and the accessibility of the baked and baking bread, subtly juxtaposed with checked flooring. Umair Khalili, whose craving for a good croissant birthed the place in question, asks us to walk through the display cases, bread baskets and bread oven, before being seated. Conceptually, Marcel’s started out as a bread boutique and the food menu was only added on when considering the market they were catering to. The food is kept deliberately simple, a silent ode to a culture of the complete meal, while the pastries and breads are the crowning glory. Market research may have led to adding a bistro to the list, but Umair was surprised by the sheer number of bread enthusiasts. People have taken to the strange-sounding breads with gusto and appreciate the observable and tasteable qualities of the pastries, just as the owners had hoped. “Pakistani desserts are delicious but not very aesthetically appealing,” Umair observes, and so his team took a page out of the French playbook and stepped up their game.
A 500g loaf is estimated to last a family of four about two days, a testament to the lack of preservatives or artificial improvers and an increment of less than a 100 rupees is a small price to pay for gut satisfaction. Although the current market is in its infancy regarding bread, the fact that Umair has customers coming in from Gulshan on a daily basis to purchase bread is enough to signal the need for more sites and more access.
Other than word-of-mouth, Marcel’s has kept the advertising to the digital sphere and so finding out the people’s opinion of the food on offer is quick and surprisingly unanimous. With no match for their éclairs, croissants, macaroons and ostentatious cakes, Marcel’s has clearly captured our attention. Do the prices promise the sustainability that the owners envision? Umair is quick to assure me that “we would prefer not to compare ourselves to other competitors” followed by the infamous ‘but’. The prices are without a doubt higher than what we are used to, but the assurance of a lighter wallet upon leaving, is counterbalanced by the sheer quality of the products on sale. A 500g loaf is estimated to last a family of four about two days, a testament to the lack of preservatives or artificial improvers and an increment of less than a 100 rupees is a small price to pay for gut satisfaction. Although the current market is in its infancy regarding bread, the fact that Umair has customers coming in from Gulshan on a daily basis to purchase bread is enough to signal the need for more sites and more access.